Thursday, June 23, 2016

Harney Peak in the Black Hills



The second half of our vacation was spent in the Black Hills. Visiting before Memorial Day was a perfect time as the weather was pleasant and the crowds were absent. We stayed at Sylvan Lake Lodge, one of the resorts within Custer State Park. The lodge sits atop a peak, along the Needles Highway. It overlooks a popular recreation area, Sylvan Lake. It was a great spot to be for hiking as it is the starting point of two trails which lead to Harney Peak. Harney Peak, or Hinhan Kaga, as named by the Lakota, is the highest summit in South Dakota. We decided to ascend on Trail #4. This trail begins on state park land, but then enters the Black Elk Wilderness, a designated protection area of over 13,000 acres, named after the Oglala Lakota spiritual leader Black Elk. Within the wilderness, certain  activities are restricted, including a limit of groups over "25 heartbeats." Even so, the trail is quite  popular and very well worn. Having gotten an early start, we saw no other hikers on the climb up.

The morning sun shines on three deer
 
Throughout the Black Hills, the forests are being impacted by the Mountain Pine Beetle. The beetle is native to South Dakota and historically has not caused significant damage. However, recent drought conditions have resulted in weaker trees and significant infestations. The damage was evident everywhere. 

Damage to the forest as a result of drought and the Mountain Pine Beetle
Although wildlife abounds in Custer State Park, in particularly in and around the Wildlife Loop Road, where we were stopped in traffic and missed dinner, due to several buffalo blocking the road, I much prefer to see wildlife in their natural surroundings, such as this marmot, which gave me a new appreciation for the outdoor gear company. .

This marmot posed for a picture before scurrying between the rocks
As we got closer to the summit, I thought that it was the perfect environment for mountain goats. We had not seen any on our trip yet. A few minutes later I looked up and saw this old guy as content as can be looking down at us.
This was the only mountain goat that we saw on our trip, but we couldn't have asked for a better picture. He seemed very interested in watching us. Shortly after we passed underneath him, the fire tower at the summit became visible. The stone structure was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1938 and is still in great condition.

The Fire Tire peaks out from the summit of Harney Peak

Prayer clothes, seen here, are a testament to the sacredness of the mountain, which is the location of Black Elk's vision at the age of nine. The story is recounted in the 1935 book Black Elk Speaks by John Neirhardt
It would be easy to spend hours just taking in the view, but after exploring the tower and eating a snack we needed to head back down. We left, just as another pair of hikers were reaching the top. 

View from Harney Peak

We decided to return on Trail #9. This trail was more exposed than trail #4, and consequently much hotter in the sun. It provided a different view though and passed a spur trail to Little Devils Tower.  h Lee took this side trip, while I continued down at a leisurely pace. I was able to add two more birds to my life list - a yellow bellied sapsucker and this beautiful mountain bluebird, painted the color of the sky.

Mountain Bluebird



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